Pedal Power fundraiser for Hill Country Childrens Advocacy Center

This meets all categories: fun, hobbies and serious. A group is escorting the bicycle ride which is a fundraiser for the HCCAC. See for details. Jennifer and I, together with Ralph Mann and Mike Atkinson left Atwoods about 7:45AM after a delicious breakfast and had a “breezily fresh” morning ride to the starting point — the pavilion in the LBJ State Park near Stonewall, Texas.

We ended up riding a total of 178 miles portal to portal , a little over 100 of that being on the bicycles routes themselves. In addition to Mike and Ralph and ourselves, we had extra help from some San Antonio riders: John Long, Jerry Squier and Rob Naylor.  Everyone pitched in and did a great job.  We’re told the riders had lots of kudos for the SAG/support sweeps we made and we were able to call in help for a number of riders.

Here is the start pedalpowerstart

and here are some riders leaving the Willow City Loop to enter Texas 16 going North after which they will re-enter the Loop, headed for The Hill which is quite a surprise for the flatlanders who don’t realize where the Hill Country got its moniker. After THE Hill, then they know. Riders

Much of the route goes through some honest-to-goodness ranching country complete with livestock. One section in particular can be quite treacherous in wet weather due to what I think to be an odd habit for sheep and goats to poop in the pathway, as it were. Did you know that stuff is really slippery when wet?

Today the weather was great and we did not have to contend with the “stuff.” The goats were out though, and Jen got a shot of a couple of especially cute ones (her term).

Yield to goats

We were especially touched by the fact that HCCAC dedicated the first mile of the ride to our friend Vogey who passed away recently, and to a rider who was killed recently in a traffic accident.  Vogey — Robert Voglino — had assisted us in the escorting for many years and in 2007 organized the escorts when I was elsewhere.  I’ve written about Vogey elsewhere on this blog. There was a photo of each of these men in that first mile and a bulletin board presentation as well. Vogey

Pedal Power Wildflower Ride for Advocacy Center

The 10th annual Pedal Power Wildflower Ride — a fund-raiser for the Hill Country Childrens’ Advocacy Center — is on for April 4.  Looking for some more motorcycle SAG/support escorts. There are waypoint/route files available for your GPS if you wish to help.  Click for Garmin .gdb format or Garmin .mps format. Generic .gpx format here.  The details on what we do is as follows:

Here is the HCCAC website on the ride:
Directions and route maps:
Click on this link for a Google Maps display centered on the parking lot of the start area.

What we do:
We’ll divide up the routes (the bicycles ride 12/23/36/62 mile routes and patrol our assigned areas looking for anyone who is broken down, exhausted or injured. We have handheld repeater radios from the LCRA and have good contact to vehicles with repair tools and ability to haul someone and their bike back to the start area.

Most of us will be done around noon. I’ll need a couple to commit to about 2pm or so to make final sweeps of each route to make sure everyone is off the course.

There are breakfast goodies and spaghetti for lunch.

If you’ve ridden before and took your yellow “caution” overshirt home, bring it.

What you need to do upon arrival:

  • Arrive at the start area by 8:30 gassed and ready to go.
  • Bring your cell phone.
  • If you have a bicycle tube repair kit or valve stem or fork tools, bring those.
  • Check in at the volunteer tent.
  • Get a radio (they’ll be in a rack in the pavillion/dining hall)
  • Pick up paper maps in the dining hall
  • Pick up list of emergency numbers in the dining hall
  • Pick up a few bottles of water for yourself and riders who may need some
  • Rendezvous with me at 8:45 and we’ll divide up routes. I’ll be outside at my motorcycle.


And When I was 60 I Was a Vagabond Biker

The “Northwest Passage” Odyssey of 2004

Well, a vagabond at least for a few weeks.
No, there is nothing to be ‘proven’ in a venture of touring on a motorcycle for almost 7,000 miles — merely a need to satisfy a ‘wanderlust’ that everyone feels from time to time.

This is the story of such a wanderlust that probably has merely whetted, not satisfied, the appetite.  It is the story of first a wonderful family vacation and then a trip with a good friend to do something that most people will never have the opportunity to do, or even to think of doing.

We saw the beauty of America, experienced the vagaries of Mother Nature, and engaged many interesting people along the way. It is my pleasure to share some of the experience through my inadequate words and barely adequate photography but if any of your wanderlust is thusly satisfied then I am pleased.

Near the bottom of this post is a list of links to many of the places we saw.

We covered Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Washington, Oregon, California and Arizona.

Some of the highlights included:

  • 8 days in Lake City, CO
  • The world’s roughest road (456 in NW Oklahoma enroute Raton, NM — but scenic!)
  • Camping in the Jim Bridger Forest just NE of Montpelier, ID
  • Jackson Hole, WY
  • Viewing the Grand Tetons
  • Yellowstone
  • 3 nights and 2 days of touring Glacier NP
  • Hike to Avalanche Lake in Glacier
  • Camping in the forest under Mt. Hood
  • California Redwoods and the “Big” Tree
  • Lake Tahoe, camped by the lake

Some of the best roads/routes were:

  • SR12 Trinidad, CO to U.S. 160
  • Southfork/Creede/Lake City
  • Lake City/Gunnison/CR742 over Cottonwood Pass
  • CO SR82 over Independence Pass to Aspen and on to Glenwood Springs
  • WY SR 530 along West side of Flaming Gorge Reservoir
  • U.S. 2 from Browning to West Glacier
  • Going-to-the-sun road up to Logan Pass in Glacier
  • U.S. 2 to Libby, Eureka, U.S. 93 back to Kalispell
  • Kalispell/US 93/SR28/SR200/SR135 to I90
  • Coeur d’Alene/US 95/Lewiston/US12 to Umatilla,OR
  • Oregon SR35/US26 around Mt. Hood
  • US 101 on the entire Oregon Coast
  • CA 299 to Redding/44 to Lassen/89 to Lake Tahoe

The “worst” of the trip:

  • Craig, CO KOA (can you spell T R A I N?)
  • Waiting for tire change in Post Falls, ID

and the most disappointing:

Columbia River Gorge which was long, hot and boring. Not up to the hype.

The longest day of riding was

Cedar City, UT to Santa Rosa, NM — 695 miles.

Most rain:

Albuquerque to Clines Corner.

Browse and feel free to log your own observations, similar experiences or comments.

(these links need to be cleaned up) Look at the PINK links in the left column to navigate directly to the entire “2004 Trip” section or the “Trip Images” or just the “CapnJ’s Blogs” about the trip. Or, you can click here for full trip album — caution — it’s big

gil — a/k/a ‘Captain Justice’

Original Itinerary with lots of links

The Trip of July 2004. Initial itinerary is:
Fri 7/2 (if not 7/1) depart. Arrive Jones Valley same day.

Sun 7/4 depart Jones Valley. Arrive Raton, NM – 760 miles.

Mon 7/5 Raton to Lake City, CO – 250 miles. Map.
We’ll pass thru the Creede area and the headwaters of the Rio Grande.

We’ll go over Slumgullion Pass which is about where Jennifer was asking just what I meant by the primitive campground on Lake San Cristobal near Lake City, which was formed out of the Slumgullion Slide.  To call it a gorgeous lake is a serious understatement.  Here is a view from about where we camped in “ought one.”

Stay at Henson Creek RV Park. We have reservations on the beach.  Some area photos.

Tue 7/6 Mess around town, arrange for jeep.

Wed 7/7 Tour of Alpine Loop — full day trip. More here.

Thur 7/8 Depart — Jennifer: 938 miles back to HSB … arrive Saturday. Map

I will be headed to the Paonia rally and not far from Lake City will pass the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.  Jennifer will remember the fantastic road from there past Crawford where Joe Cocker’s place is, and on to Paonia.

That’s about the plan for the first stage. From Paonia I’ll trail along with some of the “rolling rally” to Spokane Washington before I break off to head to Portland, Oregon for my judicial conference (edit: did not happen — came to my senses!).

The “Rolling Rally” group’s schedule:
7.11 Sun. (PM) Paonia, CO to Vernal, UT (210 mi)
7.12 Mon. Vernal, UT to Jackson, WY (320 mi)
7.13 Tues. Jackson, WY to Pine Creek, MT (196 mi)
7.14 Wed. Pine Creek, WY to St. Mary, MT (340 mi)
7.15 Thu. St. Mary, MT to Spokane, WA (315 mi)
7.16 Fri. Spokane, WA (0 mi)
7.17 Sat. (PM) Spokane, WA to Winthrop, WA (188 mi)
7.18 Sun. Winthrop, WA to Queets, WA (324 mi)
On Saturday I’ll peel off for Portland and leave the group. Will be in Portland until 7/21. I like the rest of this route … may use it for my own return.

7.19 Mon. Queets, WA to North Bend, OR (378 mi)
7.20 Tues. North Bend, OR to Shingletown, CA (368 mi)
7.21Wed. Shingletown, CA to Lee Vining, CA (364 mi)
7.22 Thu. Lee Vining, CA to Cedar City, UT (422 mi)
7.23 Fri. Cedar City, UT to Cortez, CO (444 mi)
7.24 Sat. Cortez, CO to Tucumcari. NM (430 mi)
7.25 Sun. Tucumcari, NM to DFW

Links to “stuff we might see” and places to stay along the way:

North Cascades National Park

Olympic National Park

Glacier National Park

Yellowstone National Park

Grand Teton National Park

Lassen Volcanic National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Cedar Breaks National Monument

Zion National Park

Cedar City, UT C of C

Crater Lake National Park

Grand Coulee Dam

Jackson, WY Lodging

KOA Cedar City, UT

KOA Jackson West – Teton Village

KOA Livingston (Pine Creek) WY

KOA St. Mary, East Glacier, WY

KOA Vernal, UT

Lee Vining, CA

Livingston, WY Lodging

Port Townsend / Keystone Ferry Schedule

Port Townsend / Keystone Ferry Fares

East Glacier Lodging

St. Mary Lodge

Trinidad, CO Lodging

Vernal, UT Lodging

Big Bend on the Beemer 1999

This is a copy/paste from the old website on my 1999 trip to Big Bend on the then new Beemer. That was about 95,000 miles ago. I hope the links work. If not, the original stuff is here: and I’ll fix the links later.

Big Bend
OK. Trip report No. 1. Horseshoe Bay, Texas to Big Bend National Park
First real trip on the new RT although I did start with 2900 miles on
the bike already. Had decided on this trip in lieu of attempting
the Blue Ridge Parkway — boy am I glad I did. The weather in that end
of the world became impossible, at least for me.
First some references:
A good search is on for “Big Bend National Park Texas” — lots of results.
Many storms rolling through central Texas on Friday morning, March 12, 1999,
as I’m preparing to leave. All loaded up, gassed up, maps and GPS in
hand, Valentine 1 firmly mounted. Check the weather on the ‘Net. Look
at the doppler radar out of Austin and the national radar on Finally, a go decision is made about noon as most of the
stuff around here has gone around North and it looks good to the West
and Southwest.
The first thing I notice is that the RT handles nicely with the load and
rides even better than naked. I take a favorite route to Fredericksburg
through Sandy and near Willow City. Anyone who gets anywhere near
Willow City needs to do the “Willow City Loop” which comes off of Texas
16 about 30 miles South of Llano and comes out the other end about 10
miles North of F’burg. Lunch in F’Burg at a new place. While backing
into the one parking spot where I think I can eat and see the bike, a
cager is coming up as if to take the place. They back off and I ease it
in and practice my first move in getting off the RT with all the
camping gear packed right behind me. Interesting maneuver, if
inelegant. Just as I order, the cager comes up to say hi — it was my
former next door neighbor! Small world indeed.
Then to Hunt, Vanderpool and Utopia (
Have done that route many times and enjoy it every time. Much of it
along the river, all of it hilly and twisty. A unique sight along the
way is the Lost Maples State Park. Turning due West at Utopia, an area
not yet explored, I take further note of the clouds building up again.
Ah yes, Texas weather. Ever changeable. Running Westerly, the hills get
higher and the clouds heavier. Glad for the Aerostich and fullface
helmet — think I’m gonna need it. I hit US83 just South of Leakey, in
the rain. Very light rain but I’m nervouse because (a) it’s light, and
(b) I’ve not been in the rain with this bike yet. Change of plans, turn
North for a while, then West on FM337, skirting the main storm.
FM337, which also runs from Utopia Westward, and eventually hooks up with
Texas 55 is a fantastic ride. Just out of Leakey you start a steady,
sharp climb into mountain country. For a while I almost think I’m in
REAL mountains. Lots of new surface and roadwork everywhere, but a good
Down out of the mountains I hit the flatlands and head Southwest toward Del
Rio. Bar ditches full of water and a 1/2 mile stretch with hail 2-3
inches deep along the edge of the road. Change of route had been an
excellent idea. The PIAA 1200’s are starting to show up on the road as
the light dims. As it turns hard dark I’m very glad to have them. This
is still deer country.
Stopped at Del Rio for the night because of doubts about the weather. Next day
headed early for the Big Bend, still many miles away.
Only made 286 miles that first 1/2 day. The Garmin
III+ says I averaged 53.5 mph. On the road Saturday at 8a.m. Cold and
windy, very gusty. Handgrips on and vest plugged in. Stopped at Dryden
for a warmup and a snack. Not a place you would stop otherwise, and
there are only two choices, one being the Dryden General Store. Pablo
owns the place and had a few groceries, sodas, one pair of shoes
(black, lace, used — very), assorted foam ball caps, and a slew of
junk that only a hard-scrabble rancher would know about. Pablo tells me
about a bicyclist who was through there once and planning to cross into
Mexico and ride along the Rio Grande … to California. Pablo told him
there were probably no roads and few trails, but off the fellow went.
Needless to say, Pablo never knew what came of him. We also discussed a
German fellow who was motorcycling all over the world but had never
been to China and was lamenting that. I told Pablo that my goal was to
see most of the U.S. by motorcycle and he offered that he could not do
that — had never been on a motorcycle — but could do it by horseback.
Despite his probable 65-70 years age my guess is he could, too.
Actually, I have no idea if his name is Pablo — but it fits.
Stopped in Marathon to have lunch at the famous Gage Hotel, only to find their
restaurant not open at the moment. The soda shop next door had a
fabulous cheeseburger that I hungrily devoured.  Asking around, I
discover that all the rooms in the whole area are taken. Spring break
and the Bend is popular with the college students — and I thought they
all did beaches! Got the last available room at the Big Bend Inn and RV
park in Study Butte — Study being pronounced Stu Dee. Have no idea
why. When I asked about a campground, the lady laughed. Now I didn’t
think the question deserved quite that response, but at least a room
was available.
Rode down US385 to the ranger station, then up to the Basin. While the BBNP
is primarily desert, the Chisos Mountains sit smack in the middle of it
and up a beautiful mountain road lies the Basin. It is an interior
basin on top of the mountain. Reminds you of a volcano mouth, sort of.
The ride up that road is just as beautiful as I remembered it and the
first glimpse of Casa Grande peak is awe-inspiring, again. In the Basin
is a lodge, camping, and many hiking trails of varying difficulty and
length. It’s about 6,000 elevation compared to the 2,600 on the desert
Out of the Basin I head West toward Study Butte (remember the
pronunciation, there’ll be a test later). Approaching the cutoff to
Santa Elena canyon I remember my first trip there. Suddenly, the left
blinker is on, check the mirrors for rear cagers. All clear ahead.
Decisive left turn and a twist of the throttle brings me AND the bike
to life as I anticipate the ride. It’s 30 miles up over a series of
mountain ridges and then down into the canyon area. Santa Elena is 1500
feet deep and the best lookout point has you looking straight into the
throat of it. A favorite float trip is from Lajitas (
down to this canyon. A more extended trip goes further downstream to
Boquillas canyon. I stop to sip a little coffee (the Nissan stainless
thermos has kept it hot since early morning). Take a few pictures. Talk
to the Gold Wing rider with his family in the Suburban — can tell he
is wishing for his bike! Time to ride out. Stopped to view Mule Ears
peaks — yep, that’s just what they look like. Have to look up the
geological history of how they got that way.
On into Study Butte and checking in. Hungry. Ever notice how our trips all
center around food and where to get it? On a tip from another tourist,
I head for “Papa Rios” which to look at is, well, just a place my wife
would not enter without serious encouragement. But my hunch is correct
and the food is great. Authentic Mexican food and it’s all prepared
freshly, one dish at a time. Glad to be back in the ‘Bend’ and with a
good meal under my belt, I’m happy. Did 354 miles today, including the
side trips. Prior to entering the Park I averaged 69.8 mph, but the
twisties dropped it to 58.2. My elevation ranged from 740 to 5540 feet
according to my Casio Triple Sensor watch.
The RT has performed flawlessly. With all the cross winds — some of which
were gusting brutally — I did figure out the “sail effect” where the
RT wants to turn into the gust, thereby maintaining a pretty good
track. I’ve heard people criticize that but I think it’s pretty
effective. Still using no oil. Amazing. The engine has smoothed out a
little more and the exhaust has become a little more pronounced. Can
almost hear the engine running now.
Sunday morning. Off into the Park again, down to Boquillas canyon area and Rio Grande Village — a camping village (
Warm, sunny, and incredibly quiet in the picnic area. Time for a little
more coffee-sipping and contemplation. Several birders intently gazing
into binoculars. Must remember to get a compact pair to carry on the
bike. A couple of javalinas crossed the road in front of me on the way
down — the first game I’ve seen up close, other than deer. The sky is
intense blue, totally clear. Many bird sounds. A Bob White quail,
finches, many others I don’t recognize. A woodpecker is in the pine
tree just behind me but I can’t spot him. Coming into this area early,
travelling Easterly, I had the mountains silhouetted by the morning
sun. Passed an artist set up on the roadside. People beginning hikes.
Sitting here, I’m surrounded by the majestic, stark, and brutally
rugged of this area. Surely this must be where God lived while he
worked on the rest of the world.
Out of the Park, through Terlingua (now commercially developed in part, but
still quaint). It’s famous for the old ghost town, an most interesting
old cemetery, and a famous (if raucous) chili cookoff. Destination for
today is Fort Davis, via Presidio. Have never been North of Terlingua.
Through Lajitas where many people are suiting up for river rafting. And
Then the road gets really interesting. The surface is rough in many places
but the stretch from there to Presidio is awesome! Steep grades, esses
that seem to continue forever, hilltop crests so sharp you wouldn’t see
an 18-wheeler approaching. Many off-camber turns immediately (operative
word is immediate) after crests of hills. Many long sweepers along with
tighter turns. Not much traffic. The country is becoming even more
stark, dry and rugged than down in the Bend. Very inhospitable. Keep
seeing “open range” warning signs — but no livestock. The drought has
really hit this area — two years in a row, and it’s dry to begin with.
Lunch at Presidio (yep, that food thing again) and North to Marfa. No reason
to stay here. At Marfa I make an executive decision to head for home.
My wife is leaving tonight for a 5-day convention and I’m really
missing her (don’t tell). Get out the map, get the GPS in hand. Plug in
a few new waypoints and turn Easterly. Quickly. I know I’ll get caught
by dark because I only left the cafe in Presidio at 2:30. By the time
it’s dark, I’m getting off of I-10 and onto US290 toward F’burg,
Johnson City and turning back North to home. It’s cold now — went
below freezing I hear later. Grips on high. Stop to report into home
and put on another pair of socks. PIAA’s spotting deer constantly now
— thankfully! Fortunately, none of them get bold. Road time today
10:45, 637 miles, avg speed 59.2 which includes the sight-seeing time.
Some of that was at a little quicker rate <vbg>. Total trip 1302
In short, the bike was flawless, time too short (my fault — could’ve
stayed gone). The Big Bend is a very unique place. Not “pretty” to some
people’s eye — but a very unique and varied environment with an
interesting ecological history. It’s out of the way. You have to be
going there to get there. Try it — you’ll like it!

My maps

(this posting may need work … this is an old posting that is being pulled into WordPress)

Playing with maps. The first link below is from This is all an experiment (isn’t life?) and the map is a work in progress, ok?

Where has my bike been?

MyMaps at Click the icon to go to all my maps at

If this works, it should show my ‘july 2006’ travel map, as I update it. If the map does not display below, make sure the URL is entered as (the last “/” is necessary, and if a PHPsession ID is added, get rid of it … lastly, you may need to scroll down to see the map). MyMaps (july 2006) at Alternatively, click this button to get the july 2006 map

My first motorcycle cross-country trip

(this will be a work-in-progress as there is a LOT more about this trip …)

This is not ALL about that one trip, but a piece of it that was prompted by a message on the IBMWR email list today. The discussion was about rain gear and it had turned to the relative merits of double-flapped zippers.

Reminds me of my first cross-country ride. It was 1978 and a bunch of friends with whom I’d been riding enduros with said they were headed to Pikes Peak on Labor Day weekend, why didn’t I get a street bike and come along. So I went down to the local Honda store and picked up a brand new CB750-4 with full Vetter fairing including lowers, scotch-guarded my orange insulated jump suit and away we went.

As has always been the case, I was the grouch with a schedule and pushed our group to leave Aspen in time to make our next destination. It was about 3 in the afternoon and off to the South we headed. Toward Independence Pass. 3PM. Mountains, gaining elevation, at now close to 4PM. What happens every afternoon in the mountains around that time? It rains.

Well, in this case it not only rained but began to hail as well. Now having grown up in West Texas with REAL hail this little pea-sized stuff was not too impressive. It was loud on the helmet but not otherwise too bad. I scooted toward the tank to tuck as much of my body behind the fairing as possible and avoided most of the direct hits from this nuisance-sized hail and all was well.

At least I thought all was well until I realized that some important equipment was freezing! I had ducted the hail into my lap and the engine heat coming up between the tank and seat was melting the pile of ice that had accumulated right at the crotch area and, of course, was seeping (nay, was flooding!) through the zipper area of my trusty jumpsuit. Not near the protection that we now wear while riding our wonderful Beemers.

Yes, we did make it up Pikes Peak. Tough climb for a normally-aspirated (that would be carburetor versus fuel injection for those of you who’ve never heard of a carburetor) engine. From the Peak I recall we went westerly and that evening came to a restaurant near the river advertising fresh trout. We whipped in there and gleefully ordered, knowing we had hit the mother lode of Colorado cuisine.

In no time at all out came trout for everyone. Whole trout baked with herbs and all the trimmings. As we each began to dissect our delicacies Charlie began to chuckle. Now why would a grown man chuckle at baked trout? And the chuckle grew, and soon grew into mild hysteria. What?

And then, right before his and our eyes lay the mere shell of a trout baked to oblivion, apparently, because the skeleton was wrapped with the now thinnest of skin encasing hardly any meat at all. Either this trout had been on a really serious diet, or had been overcooked to an extreme because there was no meat in or on this carcass.

Then I began to laugh, either at Charlie or at his trout. Then Jerry, the Charlie was set off again, and pretty soon our whole group was reduced to hysterical, tearful, uncontrollable laughter. Now then, the rest of the patrons were a bit taken aback because we had come in with all of our riding gear looking (I’m sure) a bit rough and maybe even tough, and here we were, suddenly laughing like a bunch of school kids.

Along comes the waitress, and ultimately the owner and all the could do was laugh with us and head to the kitchen for a replacement meal for Charlie. Actually, the fish was good and his was a fluke of some sort, still not fully understood. For years after that our lives were peppered with trout jokes — and that’s not easy.

(more to come)

2006 Bike trip to the West


It’s over but not forgotten. A great trip with many memories, one of which I could do without (the valve stem debacle).  I departed June 30 in the early morning and got back home about 1:30PM on July 21. The trip had been planned to include the national BMW rally in Vermont but I opted to delete that leg due to a lot of reasons including the heat that would be involved in that 2200 mile leg, the fact that once there I was 2400 miles from home, and I was missing Jennifer more than just a little bit.  Laughing

I saw a lot of country I’d not been in before as well as revisiting some favorite places.

Date of this writing: Monday, July 24, 2006  1:13 PM
Photo Gallery:  (I need to fix this)
Riding days: 17 (out of total 22 days)
From:  Horseshoe Bay, Texas and back
Via:  Arkansas, Kansas City, MO, South Dakota, Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico
Stops and Sights: Family reunion in Arkansas, the Keels in Kansas City, Mount Rushmore, the Black Hills of South Dakota, Devils’ Tower, Little Bighorn, Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway, Togwatee Pass, Jackson Hole, Teton Pass, Stanley, ID, Moab, Arches NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Zion NP, Telluride, Paonia, Lake City, Creede, South Fork, Wolf Creek Pass, Pagosa Springs, Santa Fe, Roswell, and the the usual route back home from there.

Cumulative data:

6995 miles in 17 days of riding out of 22 total days ( Avg 394 miles per day); Avg. driving speed 55.9; Avg. speed overall 42.1; total time on the bike 166 hrs, 41 hrs stopped and 125 hrs driving. The stop time includes lunches, photo ops, refueling, stopped in traffic (light, congestion, construction … whatever).

Longest day: 792 miles KC, MO to Mount Rushmore.

Weather: Pleasant in the mountains, very hot otherwise.

The roads:  Generally good but encountered construction in every state. Some of the construction was well-managed, some was horrible. Colorado was the best and a stretch in Idaho enroute Boise was the worst consisting of 10 miles of ruts, potholes and washboard in a total reconstruction section that was really torn up.

Problems: Speedometer cable broke at GPS 1710 and was replaced at GPS 5218, thus 3508 miles are not on the odometer; valve stem failure on the 16th enroute Lake City.

Total miles per GPS 6995
Total gallons 161.136
Overall MPG 43.411
Highest MPG 52.27 Mountains at a relaxed rate
Lowest MPG 38.68 Little Bighorn to Red Lodge — hot and fast
Number of fills 33

Observations and musings:  I enjoy travelling alone or in a small group. Large groups are not fun. The days travelling alone were very nice and gave opportunities to get inside myself a bit. I also offers an opportunity to visit with characters along the way because people will approach a single rider or maybe a couple of riders more easily than a group. Many pleasant conversations were had along the path. I enjoy the camping but the constant setup and teardown of the campsite gets wearisome. I would like to make a trip where I stayed a couple of days at each spot, maybe 2-3 days. I took too much stuff on this trip as I’m prone to do when I take the trailer. I need a really small laptop to travel with as I constantly worried about having the big laptop, the one with all my programs and data on it. I backed it up in two separate locations prior to leaving, but still worried about it. With a tiny laptop I can pack w/o needing the trailer. I can also leave off the cooking gear unless I know I’m going to be doing that kind of camping.

2006 bike trip – details

FAQ and info about the July 2006 trip. Checking the blog, photos and map.


More details below, but if you want to “ride along” then here are the quickie instructions.

This site will be updated most days with wild tales and photos as I go.
Just look for the links in the left menu for  (need to fix these)
2006 trip
2006 trip gallery
2006 trip map

Most of the planning is done for The Vagabond — 2006 edition. An ambitious trip is in the offing. Here is a photo of the bike (need).

Attached is an Adobe PDF file of the basic route which is (subject to change) in general terms, the following:

  • Home to Jones Valley, AR
  • Then to Kansas City, MO to see the Keels
  • Then to the Black Hills of South Dakota via the Badlands National Park and Mount Rushmore, up through Montana via Devil’s Tower to visit the Little Big Horn and ride Beartooth Pass, down into Wyoming to the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, then west across Yellowstone to Boise, ID for Rally No. 1.  It’s the BMW Riders Association International rally. July 6-9. Depart by July 9.
  • Then Southeastward to Paonia, CO for Rally No. 2. That is the Colorado BMW Club’s “Top of the Rockies” rally. Haven’t yet figured out all of the enroute sights. July 13-16. Depart by July 16.
  • Then Northeastward to Burlington, VT (actually Essex Junction) for the National BMW rally.  July 20-23.  Probably depart by July 21 or 22.
  • Then return via Philadelphia (Independence Hall and that cracked bell, etc), thence the Guilford Courthouse National Military Park (from whence cometh the surname), ride some of the side roads along the Blue Ridge Parkway (I’ve done the Parkway proper), and on towards home  in an as yet undetermined route aside from those features.

This trek is the “Peaks of America Tour” involving rallies by the three major organizations in the BMW world in America. Who knows if I’ll actually make the last leg, but I might! Cool.

vacation2006 — PDF of the intended route.

There will be regular updates to the blogs with photos and the map (see link above) will be annotated as I go.
Who cares?  If nothing else it’ll be a fine record for ruminations in my old age when I can no longer swing a foot over the saddle. If someone else finds it entertaining then I’m pleased.

The Cap’n.

Detailed reports from the trip

Departure June 30


Away at 6:28AM, a breakfast taco at Atwood’s and gone. Presently lunching at a roadside park about 30 miles short of Texarkana. It’s warm, but the cool vest is working perfectly. Should be in Jones Valley by 3:30 and in the swimming hole by 3:35!.

About 305 miles into the trip at this point. Decided to take I-30 for the sake of time. Bad idea! Dallas area, lots of construction. At one point the interstate was down to one lane. Flowing nicely here though.

Date of this writing: Friday, June 30, 2006  5:38 PM
Riding date:    Day No.  1
From:  Horseshoe Bay
To:  Jones Valley, AR
Via:  nothing important
Stayed at:  Jones Valley
Location:  Tent
LAT/LONG:  34.39115 -93.610167

Stops and Sights: Nothing to talk about until getting into Arkansas. It is a beautiful state once you get into the hills. First a lot of pines and a number of new growth areas. Finally into the hardwoods. In the Valley we have several species of hardwoods that are periodically harvested.

Miles today: GPS –     478.3       Odometer –  494
Ending odometer today:  88,127

Weather: Hot and dry

The roads:  Arkansas was pretty rough once TX-8 turned into AR-41, but then it smoothed out. Up 41 is not a bad route.

Food:  Hot dog for lunch, with an apple.

Observations and musings:  It still takes going 500 miles to get out of Texas and start having fun!  Tent is pitched. Looking for food now.

CapnJ Trip Report: Sounds and sights of the forest


Follow map progress at
Date of this writing: Saturday, July 01, 2006 7:16 AM
Riding date: Day No. 2
Location: Still in Jones Valley — on the occasion of the 85th family

Last night while all tucked snugly in the tent on top of the sleeping
bag (you see, it’s a down-filled mummybag that is rated to something
below 0!) I was surrounded by sounds and, even in the dark of the night,
sights. The rain fly was still safely tucked away in the bike trailer as
there was not even a hint of rain. Had it rained on me I would simply
have taken credit for bringing it in. Thus the “roof” of the tent was
open to the almost clear night sky and the stars were surrounded by the
sounds of locusts, crickets, small frogs, and occasionally the throaty
croak of a bullfrog.

For all I could see were the stars above and the only sounds were those
of the forest night. Moonless, the night allowed the stars their
resplendent glow. The senses then wrapped those sounds around the stars
and I was immersed fully into it.

Not far away, just over at the dining hall, the “young people” (that
would be the 20 and 30 somethings) were getting reacquainted and making
the memories for the tails they will spin when they, like I, venture
into their 60’s. I recall my own gatherings with cousins I hardly knew.
Those particular cousins I cannot now recall but new family
acquaintances have been made since my 39 year reunion hiatus which was
broken in 1998. I still recall having arrived on a motorcycle (the 1998
Harley Wide Glide) and the wonderment by some of the family at this new
arrival, a motorcycle-riding judge! Huh? Incongruous they thought.

This morning started with a brisk walk of about two miles. It’s about
70, maybe even a little cooler. The sky is clear and the birds are in
full voice as the world slowly awakens. I walk by the family cemetery
and say a quiet thanks to those who have preceded us and who made this
wonderful place where we have gathered for 85 years. As I write, the
sounds and smells of bacon frying and the warm coffee in my cup tell me
the morning is moving toward the day. Hunger pangs strike when I let it.
Will the food never get done?

Day 3


Sunday morning and the air is crisp. Yesterday was spent with family gabbing, meals for 100+ and a finale’ of fireworks last night. Jennifer finally arrived about 6:30 after a long drive and was very glad to be here.  Of all things, a bunch camped next to us had a roaring fire — yes, in the heat — but it has become a tradition and just because or reunion is not held in the dead of winter they’ll not be deterred.

I’ve been out for a brisk 30 minute walk and plans are being laid for kayaking later. The river is low but passable. This part of Arkansas is as dry as Central Texas.

The Boston Mountains of Arkansas


Discovered a part of Arkansas I had not been in. Left Jones Valley about 8:25 this morning, up 27 to Mount Ida, West to Y-City to catch 71. Ran a while on 540 around Fort Smith and then took the “Boston Mountains Scenic Loop” — Exit 29 off of 540 — and it’s gorgeous. I’m putting a map pin at a lunch stop where I’m writing this. A recommended route for anyone travelling North and South in the Western part of Arkansas.

Follow map progress at

Date of this writing: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:40 PM
Photo Gallery at
Map at
Riding date: Day No. 2 (day 4)
From: Jones Valley
To: Lee’s Summit, MO (outside of Kansas City)
Via: Mt. Ida, Y-City, U.S. 71 and the Boston Mountains scenic loop
Stayed at: The Keel’s

Stops and Sights: Did stop at a nice roadside park in the Boston
Mountains North of Fort Smith, Arkansas. Was somewhat struck by those
mountains. The road was very (nicely) curvy and a decent surface.

Miles today: GPS – 490 Odometer – 403
Ending odometer today: 88,530

Weather: Hot and dry

People: In Jasper, MO I stopped for a refreshment and met a group of
riders. Local guys headed out to some stock car races. Got to talking
with one of them who came up and quickly introduced himself and took
interest in my trip. Turns out he is a local preacher and allowed as how
he too looked for justice, but from different places. Very gregarious
fellow and he bid me God speed which was quite appreciated.

Points of Interest: Boston Mountains Scenic Loop. Tour of Kansas City,
MO and the “Plaza” shopping area (Jennifer: you are forbidden to go
there … very dangerous place!).

Events: Ron and Vicky took me out to a great BBQ place. As good as I’ve
had. I had a sampler plate that included, now this is a true story,
“burnt ends.” Never heard or thought about it, but it’s just the
slicings of beef that have a burnt end. We started with some of the best
onion rings I’ve ever had. Outstanding. Had a great visit with them in
their lovely home, a tour of KC which is a very pretty town (especially
for a large city), and the great BBQ.

Happy Birthday U.S.A. – Mount Rushmore


Date of this writing: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 11:11 PM
Photo Gallery at
Map at
Riding date: Day No. 3 (day 50
From: Kansas City,MO
To: Mount Rushmore
Stayed at: KOA
Location: Hill City — 5 miles West of Mount Rushmore
Stops and Sights: Rushmore. The first glimpse of it was fantastic.
Seeing it in person is a totally different experience from what you see
in pictures. After all, this is the icon of the first 150 years of this
country. I had hoped to get here and see the fireworks display, only to
find out that it was held last night! Oh well, maybe next year.

Miles today: GPS – 765 Odometer – 792
Ending odometer today: 89322

Weather: Left KC in the rain, light but steady. Temp never got over
about 75 the whole way.

Stuff I’ve seen: Mount Rushmore, of course. Travelled up I-29 along the
Iowa/Nebraska border to Sioux Falls, then West on I-90. Two of the best
interstates I’ve been on. Rolling farmland most of the way. South Dakota
is very flat in the East, then gorgeous mountains nearing Rapid City. I
did not expect the Mount Rushmore area to be in such heavy mountains.
The sun was dropping below the mountains as I got to Keystone and I was
quite chilled. Elevation was in the vicinity of 4500 ft. so it was nippy.

For many miles along I-90 the had bailed the grass in the median and
other highway ROW. Pretty clever. I guess that up here you scrap for
every bit of grass you can in anticipation of the winter.

Although I’m disappointed at missing the fireworks, there is yet
something special about being at this place on the 4th of July. I did
get my celebratory apple pie today, but no hotdog. I’m looking forward
to checking out Mount Rushmore, and then riding some of the famous
canyons of the Black Hills. Then onward to Montana.

Mount Rushmore and Keystone, South Dakota


I don’t know what I was expecting of the area, but this group of mountains is exceptionally beautiful. One of the places we read about in all of our early school years is Mount Rushmore. mountrushmore

We’ve all seen photos and read about it but you just have to stand there and look up to wonder “how did they do that?”  The facial features are remarkably smooth and the detail is outstanding.  The construction story is available on the web, of course, and there is an entire display about Gutzon Borglum, the master craftsman of very hard stone.

Last night I stayed at the fanciest KOA I’ve ever been in. It had a full restaurant, a pizza/ice cream parlor, lodge, two movies each night, and a lot more.  It’s the Palmer Gulch KOA and is the closest KOA to the memorial. After registering I finally found my tent site only to discover a group of people gathered around the fire ring at my site. Turns out they had pitched their tent the day before in a rain storm and got it too close to their fire and had scouted out a then-empty site. I encouraged them to stay (two couples, a sister, and 3 small children) as they were roasting smores. We visited a bit and I was rewarded with a piping hot, gooey smore. A perfect prelude to the steak dinner I would be enjoying in about an hour.

Sleeping was not a problem after my 765 mile sprint from Kansas City, MO where I had a wonderful evening the night before with friends Ron and Vicky Keel.  Ron was a seminarian serving at Trinity for two years and about a year ago graduated, was ordained, and now has his own church in Blue Springs, MO which is near Lee’s Summit where they live.

This morning (it’s now 7:24AM local time) I awakened to about 50 degree weather with a partly cloudy sky. Wonderfully crisp mountain air. I’m having breakfast at the moment and am about to attack some of the famous canyon lands of the Black Hills of South Dakota.

The Badlands


After the awakening in 50 degree weather and a great breakfast of ham and eggs it was time to ride. Now I’m about 1600 miles into this trip now, so ride more? Of course. That’s the object. And it was time to master one more objective: to ride the Badlands of the Black Hills of South Dakota. I headed South on U.S. 16-A toward the Custer State Park and found the ride to be outstanding. Probably the best ever.  There were clever bridges bridges1


and one-lane tunnels

and wildlife in the road (well, not too wild — they would hardly move. animals

I really don’t think I’ve ridden any better roads anywhere else, and that includes most of Colorado and New Mexico, Utah, Oregon, Northern California, the Carolinas and Tennessee.  The route took me through Deadwood but I felt there was not time to stop. Looks like an interesting town.

From Custer I headed to Sturgis and and Sturgis Motorcycle Museum.  It was well worth the 5 bucks admission to see 80-90 motorcycle from every vintage and in every condition you can imagine.

One special photo was of a Vincent Black Shadow (that one was for you, Dave):vincent

Then it was time to head to Spearfish, the long way Smile. Back down 14-A to near Custer, West on 85, down 14-A, then 85 on to Four Corners, then 585 North and eventually to Sundance enroute the Devil’s Tower which is one of the objectives of this section of the trip. More on that later.

Devil’s Tower


Remember Close Encounters of the Third Kind? That’s Devil’s Tower in there and that was another objective. Check off that one. It is a most interesting geological feature with several theories on how it was formed.  It was getting hot so I did not try to walk up to the base as is possible.  As you approach the area it just jumps out at you the first time you have a view of it.



The visitor center and parking area is right under the tower as you can see in this photo. There are others in the gallery.

From there it was time to move on down the road. Having had a late arrival the night before I was anxious to get settled at a decent hour. Gillette, WY was far enough.

Summary:Date of this writing: Wednesday, July 05, 2006  10:35 PM
Photo Gallery: see link at left
Map at
Riding date:    Day No.  4 (total days 6)
From:  Mount Rushmore
To:  Gillette, WY
Via:  Devil’s Tower
Stayed at:  Green Tree’s Crazy Woman Campground
Location:  Gillette

Stops and Sights: The Badlands, Devil’s Tower

Miles today: GPS –     324.7       Odometer – unknown
Ending odometer today:  who knows?  it broke!

Cumulative: 1957.6

125.8 of those miles were in the Badlands

Weather: Cool, never over 85, and mostly high 70’s. Partly sunny

The roads:  Good

Food: Some great fajitas (oh, and an Amber Bock) at a mexican food place that was within walking distance.

People:  Met “Dale” at Devil’s Tower. He was on a /5 Beemer. Had owned it 33 years. Said when it bought it he declared he would ride it till it broke — and he’s still riding.

Observations and musings:  I continue to be fascinated with this end of the world. Tomorrow will bring me to the Little Bighorn and of course Deadwood is where Wild Bill Hickok is buried. Wyoming and Montana see so big — bigger even than Texas — because everything is spread out and wide open. South Dakota was a total surprise to me, varying from rolling (and mostly flat) plains to the fantastic mountains. I’m missing Jennifer and know that she would love to be seeing this with me. We’ll return.

(to be continued …)

Northeastern Burnet County

We had a good ride today with J.R., Vance, Tom and Norm. We went East on 1431 to Cow Creek Road, up the road to Oatmeal, thru the boonies into the SE side of Burnet, then 963 to Oakalla, 221 and 116 thru Copperas Cove and up to 580, then back down to Lampasas and home.  I then went to REI to pick up my shipment of wicking underwear Smile which Vance thought was funny, but I think he was actually wishing he had some by the time we got back as the temperature was beginning to rise.

We stopped at a creek crossing on Cow Creek Road DSCN0277.JPG — you DID know there was a creek on Cow Creek Road, right! Always have to find a photo-op.

The actual route is shown in two pieces in the PDF files listed in the attachments.

I had seen the turn to Cow Creek Road many, many times but this was my first time down it. The surface is not too good, but the ride is gorgeous, along the creek which runs in a solid limestone bed.  A lot of it is lined with cottonwood trees and often a high bluff towers over the creek and roadway, providing hiding places for the indians that no doubt once occupied the area.

Moving on northward, we went out 963 to Oakalla , north just a tad on 2657 and then right on 221. Much of the route into Oakalla and then onward on 221 is canopied with overhanging trees providing a much-needed relief from the otherwise relentless of the sun.

Total trip from home was 167 miles. Back at Java Bean we enjoyed a frappacino — I had mine with mocha for a much needed blast.

Then the fun came as I headed to Austin. Hot. Very hot. Did stop by Lone Star BMW and they graciously worked me in for a new front tire which was necessary before any more serious tripping. But did I mention it was hot?

Ride in the Hill Country Memorial Day 2006

(this posting is copied from my old blog to preserve it as this was one of the last area rides with my good friend and touring companion, Robert Voglino. Some photo links need to be repaired.)

A nice local ride was had on Memorial Day 2006.  The group gathered at “TJ’s” at 8AM, just south of Marble Falls.  Jack, Greg, John, Norm, Blake, Mike and Gil left there about 8:15 for the Blanco Bowling Club Cafe for a great breakfast. Robert and son-in-law Anthony caught up with us in Blanco.

From there the nine of us, plus a 10th fellow who asked to tag along but soon broke off toward Boerne, went West on 1623 to 1888, West a couple of miles to CR104 (a/k/a Crabapple Road) to the Old Blanco Road, thence to RM473 and West to the Old San Antonio Highway, up to the “Old No. 9” railroad tunnel, East on Grapetown Rd. to 1676 and Luckenbach. After a stop to look around and have a refreshment and for the traditional photo-op under the Luckenbach Post Office sign, we left Luckenbach for Fredericksburg to 965 and Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, then Llano, down 71 to 3404 across “The Slab” to 1431, Kingsland and home.

My total mileage was 185 per the GPS and the trip (Blanco_Crabapple.pdf) was really a shakedown for the new Garmin StreetPilot 2610 GPS.  It works well sitting on its RAM Mount from CycleGadgets.